Adrien Brody

The Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection showed during Milan Fashion Week yesterday in Italy. The futuristic and anachronistic Steampunk world of the 1980’s/early 1990’s was reinterpreted with a fresh approach for todays’ men with a rock chic attitude. I have included some key looks from the catwalk and I have also included some front row shots of Adrien Brody and Renzo Rosso. Also in attendance was Bianca Balti, Matteo Ceccarini, Saturnino and Bob Cornelius Rifo.

Masculine tailoring infused with military and mechanical references: a play with details, proportions and high-waist silhouettes. Steampunk inspiration is accented with several strong technological and functional elements: jewellery buttons, metallic lace eyewear, bold zips, mechanical flowers, embroidered in tailored suiting and classic shirts. They are mixed with military-inspired constructions: a casual jacket with a elastic hem, which recalls the army underwear, a hunting vintage jacket with the typical arm protection shoulders detail, which is developed as prints and embroideries in different garments.

Contemporary elements come also through in the use of contrast textures, such as leather combined with suede, satin with Japanese microfiber, jacquard with rib, cool wool with leather, emphasized with technical and rich details to create a 3D effect bringing to life the collection. Denim is burned by laser, artfully distressed and artisanal engineered at the same time.

The colour palette is a playful melange of black navy and different shades of white, exploring the indigo tones, with clashes of intense pop-up colours – red, green, bright mustard, yellow, electric blue. The collection includes graphic geometrical stripes, applied in various treatments: as prints for knitwear, jackets, trousers and as distinctive element for shoes, bags and belts.

Images courtesy of Diesel.