I think the WWD Staff said it best when they called Dan and Dean Caten’s runway walk for Fall 2009 “a kiss-off to the recession”. With huge Jackie-O glasses, freshly done dye jobs and Venti Americano cups in hands, the models at Dsquared2 were looking more Denise Richards than Bryant Park.
The design duo that is Dsquared rocked out their show with huge heels, newsboy caps, plaid shirts and even pvc leggings. Yes, you better believe it, they didn’t miss the opportunity to pretty much pour in every trend that is around today, butI will say that it was all done with an easy LA-flair, that only the Caten’s (and Rachel Zoe…ok, and every stylist on the west coast…) can turn out.
When looking at this season as compared to their Spring 2009 RTW show, I do see a beautiful continuity beginning to glow for the Catens, however. Last season, with glossy long haired models strutting down the catwalk (same glasses) and luxe (read: rich) air, we felt Hollywood too. Yet, it was as if at that point we were watching the film of Charlie’s Angels. The girls might as well have been holstering rifles! This season though, not the case. This season, it’s like we are seeing Demi, Cam, Drew and Lucy Liu stepping off the set and out and about the town. Do you see it? Is it just me? Or maybe it’s the Starbucks cups…
Regardless, I love the looks. Even if it is everything that we are already seeing on everyone…
I’d wear it! (Oh…wait a minute…oops! I already do!)
“Over-dyed purple denims”
“The Ghost of Grunge”
“The spirit of Kurt Cobain”
Enter the world of Charles Anastase Fall 2009 RTW!
It was all very serious…the build up was intense; can’t you tell from the collection notes alone? PR teams deemed Anastase’s latest and greatest as something of a psychological look into the current political occasion…Anastase himself commented that his collection, including a debut of menswear, was to express, “his positive feelings about America’s new president.”
However, after a slew of mixed reviews, it is clear that Anastase did not exactly make his mark as intended. WWD termed the oddly tiered tutus as “sweet”. Hillary Alexander begged for a dumbing down next season, calling out the chaos of his charade as “drowned in the wordy, surreal, psycho-babble”. Sorry President Obama! Apparently Mr. Anastase was very dismayed that anyone read his work as “sweet-psycho-babble”…
To me, some of the skirts did pop. I liked them. A denim ruffled skirt a la this vintage Fendi suede piece that has been hanging in my closet for years certainly caught my eye. And, since I already believe in Anastase, I was partial to his palette as well. I actually loved the purple against the poppy bright.
I know that Anastase was reaching here (actually I would call it overreaching), yet I did not necessarily mind the quixotic effort. After all, I always appreciate a parade (note: not a charade) that makes me think, don’t you?
Here are some of the denim selections from Charles Anastase’s runway. However, the entire collection is much, much more than denim, and I encourage you view it in its entirety here, courtesy of the folks over at style.com.
So let’s talk about Twenty8Twelve, shall we? Were you happy enough to just finally have a runway collection out of the Miller girls after 5 long years? Or, did you indeed adore what they did? I know I did. There were sentiments, however, hailing from pretty much every camp possible as Savannah and Sienna marched the most notable fresh faces in the industry down the tent floor last week: Jordan Dunn, Karlie Kloss, Constance Jablonski and Ali Stephens…all “oozing with hip”. Some felt that it lacked any individuality…just another line of lovely off the rack rags…yet, others saw it as original and enigmatic.
Twenty8Twelve, which I place in that big ol’ box of fav femme duos (ahem, yes, you know it–Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman & Keren Craig, oh, and have I ever mentioned Vena Cava here before…no…really?), is backed by Pepe Jeans manufacturer and retails in two stand alone stores in London, as well as TopShop of course. The collections are most recognizable for there striking balance of bohemian wearability, cool luxury, and an ever present dip of rock and roll too. Savannah called her 2009 showing, ” Pirates of the road meet Grace Jones,” and Sienna agreed that, “It started off as a grunge collection in one direction, then as a glam collection in the other, and then it all met somewhere in the middle.”
If I had to sum up the collection in just one word, I would call it satisfying. Oh so satisfying. I’m not going to sit here and do something crazy like lump it with Lanvin or enlist it to Alexander (Wang that is), but I will tell you ladies, that, there is nothing here that you can not use. And, there is nothing that you can not find here either. Skinny Jean? Check. Hot Pant? Check. Bootie? Check. Jumper? Check. LBD? T-Shirt? Basic blouse, scarf, trench? Check. Check. AND check! And the list goes on…!
As I have previously commented in other discussions, and on other designers, oh, how I do love a collection that makes me *think*!
However, a girl can not deny that she also just flips for a collection that (and at a pretty good price point too) makes her shop.
Enjoy Twenty8Twelve by S. Miller. I’m looking forward to more now that it an official member of the runway tribe in London!
Model Justin Gaston (aka Miley Cyrus’ boyfriend) walked in the Christian Audigier fashion show in Las Vegas this week. I disgust myself for thinking he’s hot. No further comment.
images via popbytes