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Suggest Me Some Raws

post #1 of 34
1/11/08 at 6:17pm
Thread Starter 
Ok, I've given up on waiting for Diesel to bust loose with raws, so I'm looking elsewhere. In a couple of months I'll have the chance to swing by Self Edge in San Francisco which, from what I understand, is a store of record for raw denim.

As you may already know, I'm hitched to Zathan and Zatiny bootcuts. Does anybody know what brands offer something that is close in spirit to those cuts? And of those brands (if any) what do you guys perfer? I've heard names like Samurai and Flat Head tossed around, but since we're talking raws, should I really care? Is there reason to care? Cost is no object really - I just want to buy the best bootcut raws money can buy.

Also - I was at the Santa Monica Levis Store this week and noticed a rack of Levis Capital-E Skinner "Rigid" jeans. Does anybody know if these are raw? If so, then my search is over, because Skinner is a great cut and the contstruction of these particular jeans are top notch. I just haven't seen much on the net about these - so I'm thinking that perhaps these "rigid" jeans are one rinse.
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post #2 of 34
1/11/08 at 6:22pm
wouldn't it be easier to start off with a gateway drug, err denim like Nudie or APC and then move on to something more serious like Samurai? Pretty sure American Rag on la brea carries nudie.
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post #3 of 34
1/11/08 at 6:25pm
Imperial or Nudie!
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post #4 of 34
1/11/08 at 6:58pm
Although the problem with imperial and nudies is that they have loud back pocket stitching. Although it might not be an issue for you if you're from the diesel camp and get your rocks off on that. In which case, carry on.
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post #5 of 34
1/11/08 at 7:27pm
Thread Starter 
I really love the Nudie back pockets. I'm just not so keen on Nudie itself. I don't think their quality is the best (holes shouldn't come before honeycombs) and I feel like the brand has become overexposed as of late. I'd rather rock something that's really high quality and below the mainstream radar.

Unless of course those skinners really ARE raw. Oooh wouldn't that some some shit!
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post #6 of 34
1/11/08 at 7:40pm
^are Nudies prone to ripping before washing? cause that'd suck :-\
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post #7 of 34
1/11/08 at 8:21pm
I have had my ssk's for 7 months now, and I wear them a lot on my motorcycle, and to work (I am a chemist) so far, they don't really look worn as much as you would think. I am convinced this has something to do with the 2% stretch.
I wear the Nudies the most, and I am rough on my clothes, plus I think the ones you are getting are pretty thick..and there are no thin parts so far, even from moving around A LOT on my moto seat.But as a woman, I am not putting a wallet in my pocket or anything like that..lip balm sometimes ..eventually I'll wash them, then we'll see.
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post #8 of 34
1/11/08 at 8:24pm
Oh, for my opinion, I can totally see Grondie going hardcore right away with some Samurais or the like. If I were you, I'd wait until you go to SF and check out the stuff there.
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post #9 of 34
1/11/08 at 9:02pm
SelfEdge is a don't miss when you're in the bay area. Kiya is the nicest, most helpful guy you'll ever talk to about denim. He's also good for giving you honest feedback about fits, as he'd rather you look good in your denim than sell you up a notch. Considering what you be paying for the raws, it's best to wait to try them on, and Kiya sells some stuff you'd be hard-pressed to find on other people around LA. It's also worth it to see a bunch of brands side by side so you can get a real appreciation for the different types of denim used.

Plus, the store is right in the middle of The Mission district, which can be a lot of fun if you like drinking, mexican food, and stepping on bums who are trying to sleep on the street! there's also a ton of stuff in the store that isn't on the website.
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post #10 of 34
1/12/08 at 12:38am
The closest cut to Zathan is by far the Nudie Flare Glenn, However, they are long gone and you can only find them BNWT occasionally on ebay or through SF or mynudies.com. The levi skinner rigid is great and are raw. Size up one or two sizes from diesel though.
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post #11 of 34
1/12/08 at 5:54am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback! I'll be sure to ham it up with Kiya when I get there Sigmatic. Love those San Fran homeless - they crank homelessness up to 11. I remember the last time I was up there some loon on the street grabbed my ear just for grins.

chhs - You're not kidding about sizing on those Skinners. I have 33w Skinners that fit me just fine, but the 34w Rigid Skinners I have here at home won't even button (and don't stretch either)! And that's with the fly open. Sheesh. I may just swallow my pride and buy a pair of 36s. Sounds ridiculous, but for some reason they're made really, really tight.

For now - I'm just working on my 1970s JC Penny "Plain Pockets" raws. Photos soon to come.
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post #12 of 34
1/12/08 at 11:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardsale View Post
Although the problem with imperial and nudies is that they have loud back pocket stitching. Although it might not be an issue for you if you're from the diesel camp and get your rocks off on that. In which case, carry on.
Ha, from the Diesel camp? I didn't know there was such a thing. As for getting my rocks off, um ya? I am very surprised that you consider imperial and nudie to have loud back pocket stitching. I just don't see the point in wearing a plain back pocket, it is too boring. Imperial and Nudie have just the right amount of stitching. But anyway, carry on.
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post #13 of 34
1/12/08 at 11:58am
about the bootcut thing, Grondie:

when you're at SE in SF, ask kiya to see the flathead 3007. it's probably as close to zathan/a\zatiny as you're going to find in the raws. it's got a slim thigh and knee and the hem is between zathan and zatiny. the denim is incredible (i've gpt tje f310 and it's the same), it's super stiff so creases stay even if the jeans have been hung up for a couple days and it's really hairy denim too. My only complaint is the zipper fly, but i can deal with it for

size up though: i wear a 32-33 in zathan and a 34 (post hot-soak) in the FH fits the same. you may want to try on a 32 in the store to see how they fit post soak, too. the inseam is like 37" pre-soak, but i think kiya chainstitches them for free for you.

IronHeart also makes a bootcut, but its only like 1/2" or so. the 21 oz denim also incredible: super soft and thick with very dark warp threads and a well-defined weave pattern.

you may want to be ready to spend ~ 1K. ii got away the first time for $330, but a month later i went back and spent another 305...i'll be back this month too.
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post #14 of 34
1/12/08 at 7:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bottledregrets View Post
Ha, from the Diesel camp? I didn't know there was such a thing. As for getting my rocks off, um ya? I am very surprised that you consider imperial and nudie to have loud back pocket stitching. I just don't see the point in wearing a plain back pocket, it is too boring. Imperial and Nudie have just the right amount of stitching. But anyway, carry on.
Yardsale usually wears the most minimal of minimals. To him his Dior raws are pushing the boundaries of taste... And he's still beasting over my JC Penny Plain Pockets.

I was thinking of going to Diesel camp last summer. They have pre-worn canoeing, distressed wallet making and washed-out hiking trails. Up near lake Arrowhead.
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post #15 of 34
1/12/08 at 7:18pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigmatic View Post
about the bootcut thing, Grondie:

when you're at SE in SF, ask kiya to see the flathead 3007. it's probably as close to zathan/a\zatiny as you're going to find in the raws. it's got a slim thigh and knee and the hem is between zathan and zatiny. the denim is incredible (i've gpt tje f310 and it's the same), it's super stiff so creases stay even if the jeans have been hung up for a couple days and it's really hairy denim too. My only complaint is the zipper fly, but i can deal with it.
I'm getting all excited about this flathead 3007 now. As for the zipper fly, there's a guy called Dr. Denim in LA that repairs and customizes jeans. He does zipper/button conversions and the like. I'll defintely do that because every time I take a leak with any zip-fly jeans I walk around the office with my fly sticking wide open. I think to myself "I buttoned it up, right?"
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post #16 of 34
1/13/08 at 12:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bottledregrets View Post
Ha, from the Diesel camp? I didn't know there was such a thing. As for getting my rocks off, um ya? I am very surprised that you consider imperial and nudie to have loud back pocket stitching. I just don't see the point in wearing a plain back pocket, it is too boring. Imperial and Nudie have just the right amount of stitching. But anyway, carry on.
Oops, I didn't mean to offend. I have a couple nudies myself, not really keen on the stitching though.

My personal tastes always seem to err on the side of subtlety and understatement. Maybe that's why I own two pairs of common projects. Different strokes for different folks.
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post #17 of 34
1/13/08 at 2:15am
Thread Starter 
What Yardsale means is that he lives in The Projects.

Right Yardsale!
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post #18 of 34
1/13/08 at 1:15pm
Check out pure blue japan 005s and 007s as well. 004s are really bootcut but also run really small.
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post #19 of 34
1/13/08 at 2:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardsale View Post
Oops, I didn't mean to offend. I have a couple nudies myself, not really keen on the stitching though.

My personal tastes always seem to err on the side of subtlety and understatement. Maybe that's why I own two pairs of common projects. Different strokes for different folks.
It is good for people to have different tastes and yes I do tend to like some back stitching. What has been your favorite pair to break in so far?
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post #20 of 34
1/13/08 at 2:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bottledregrets View Post
It is good for people to have different tastes and yes I do tend to like some back stitching. What has been your favorite pair to break in so far?
I think my apc new cures. I like the cut a lot.

I can't seem to make a dent in my Dior 19cm MIJ raws so I don't even wear them that much. My nudie slim jims were my first and have the most progress but I've already burned a hole in the backpocket and it looks odd because the rest of the jean isn't severely distressed yet. sigh.
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post #21 of 34
1/13/08 at 8:40pm
flathead 3007 my favorite most like zathan and zatiny so simliar
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post #22 of 34
1/14/08 at 12:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenratio1.6 View Post
flathead 3007 my favorite most like zathan and zatiny so simliar
Looks like Flathead 3007 has the juice. Maybe I'll sneak up to Frisco early... I'm geting anxious.
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post #23 of 34
1/14/08 at 8:30pm
I would highly suggest learning to zip up pants than replacing all your zip flys with buttons.
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post #24 of 34
1/14/08 at 11:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grondie View Post
Looks like Flathead 3007 has the juice. Maybe I'll sneak up to Frisco early... I'm geting anxious.
if you REALLY can't wait, Kiya told me you can order the 3007 on selfedge.com. you just buy the F310 and in the comments box put you want the 3007 instead. They're the same sizing and price. If you want measurements, just call and ask. If you time it right, you can try them on at home and then return them in person for a different size within the 10 day period.

here's my posted measurements of the F310 pre and post hot soak

i've worn them 10 or so times, so i could post stretched measurements too....
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post #25 of 34
1/15/08 at 2:35am
Thread Starter 
Thanks Sigmatic. I'll either wait or just drive up one of these days. Going to the store is half the fun!
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